Alexander McQueen (FW 15/16) In the show notes, the creative director said it’s a symbol that “all men are equal in the face of duty, sharing equal honor, valor and truth.” Overall inspired by the Regency period of men’s dressing, the overwhelming assortment of suits featured hourglass silhouettes, nipped waists, high collars, and a refreshing and surprisingly sellable update to coat tails. Many of the looks were wrapped with various words of meaning, like “Honour,” “Truth,” and “Valour.” The inclusion of businessman motifs like pinstripes and houndstooth emphasized that a uniform is equally as important to those off the battle field. – Sarah Burton’s F/W 15 collection for McQueen was especially timely
Burberry Prorsum (FW 15/16) The leading man of the seasonal Burberry Prorsum movie has always been somewhat bohemian in his own rite, but for F/W 15, it went to an especially unconventional place. With plenty of fringed ponchos, mirrored jackets and scarves, and peeks of paisley and florals, it was one of Christopher Bailey’s most forward-thinking collections to date. The chief creative officer told WWD, “I liked the idea of tailoring, of classic pieces mixed with something…off-kilter. It’s about the contradiction of different worlds.” With a liver performance by Clare Maguire (it’s always about the music at Burberry), these urbane hippies showed the importance of rugged layers, relaxed trim, and a warm palette of cornflower blue, military olive, peacock teal, wine, and mustard.
Coach (FW 15/16) Showing on the runway for the very first time, the new creative director at Coach, Stuart Vevers, got off to an especially strong start with an edited and concise collection inspired by “New Yorkers’ no-nonsense winter wardrobes,” along with American movies from the late 80s starring iconic men like Keanu Reeves and Mickey Rourke. With a super urbane approach, the shearling coats had a subtle military twist — perfect for the battlefield of city streets. Both cropped and elongated silhouettes ruled, and quiet touches of nylon and lustrous leather brought in an unexpected level of sportiness. Since it is Coach after all, accessories and footwear were equally important. Sneakers with shearling tongues, soft yet structured shopping totes, and camo wool beanies completed a very promising first time on the catwalk.
James Long (FW 15/16) Calling his F/W 15 collection “Slobulence,” and inspired by the 2006 documentary “Jack Smith and the Destruction of Atlantis,” James Long sought to make his typical streetwear looks a bit more luxurious than previous seasons full of cycling themes and “rave sport” influences. The surprising addition of lace as applique and patches of Lurex went hand-in-hand with the usual sporty mesh and slick nylon. Yet another designer in London to put the shearling coat front and center for next season, other standouts included cropped denim jackets with 70s-inspired collars, lacey track pants, and painterly face collages by James Davison on fine gauge knits. The brief yet impactful inclusion of techno details and trim was still appreciated as nylon straps and buckles on otherwise cozy basics like cashmere ponchos.
KTZ (FW 15/16) Macedonian designer Marjan Pejoski ramped up the subversiveness at KTZ this season, moving away from Neo-Classical club-kid streetwear in favour of tough tailoring covered in punk patches, heavy-duty leathers and Eskimo-inspired winter furs. Echoes of A Clockwork Orange were felt in the Droog-like skinny skiwear, giving way to an almost Neanderthal-esque focus on bone-inspired patterns for oversized tracksuits and painted shearling outerwear.